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Similar stories ran in the Lancaster and York editions
of Fly Magazine. For profiles of chefs in your area,
pick up a free print version of Fly Magazine at an establishment
near you! - ed.
Sebastien Durand
-Executive chef at Parev
Years working in present position: One
Culinary education: France, Fountain Cafe in
Hershey Hotel, Frog Commissary in Philadelphia
Before you were a chef, you were a: I've always
been in a restaurant.
Favorite aspect of your job: The freedom to be
creative and working in an environment where quality
is the main concern
Favorite dish to make at Parev: The lobster specials
we have
Favorite dish to make at home: Short ribs braised
with seasonings and cooked at a low temperature in the
oven
Favorite restaurant other than workplace: Artisanal
in New York City
Most popular entree at Parev: It's difficult
to say, we sell everything.
Holiday cooking tip: Season your turkey two days
ahead of time with salt and pepper to bring flavor to
the meat.
Favorite cookbook: "Escoffier: Culinary
Guide"
Best advice: Work hard and be quiet (from my
first boss in Brittany, France).
What you would ultimately like to do in 10 years:
The same
Best area in the world to travel, in terms of culinary
quality:
Southeast Asia, because of the way they work with raw
products
Where you would love to travel: Iceland
Favorite pastimes: Fly-fishing and hunting
Michael Crumling
-Chef and general manager at Pavone's Restaurant and
Ruby's Red Garter Saloon
Years working in present position: Four
Culinary education: Managed West Shore Elks for
six years and was a private caterer for two years
Before you were a chef, you were a: Linecook,
waiter, and salesman
If you weren't a chef, you would be a: Teacher
- the job is sometimes the same and better hours
Favorite aspect of your job: The variety of tasks
that a restaurant requires - different skills and activities
Favorite dish to make at Pavone's: The specials
that get the raves or the portabello imperial
Favorite dish to make at home: Cornbread, mac
'n cheese, and barbecues
Favorite restaurant other than workplace: Mr.
T's Roadhouse in York
Holiday cooking tip: Skip the turkey and have
whatever you want - like a filet and crabcake combo,
with pecan-crusted sweet potato pie.
Oddest request from a customer: Burn my prime
rib, put it in the oven for five minutes, then top it
with cocktail sauce and American cheese.
Favorite cookbook: "San Saba River Recipes"
Best advice ever given to you: Look for a win-win
situation that ends in you achieving your goal. Then
take it slow and incrementally. (from Dick Kelsey)
What you would ultimately like to do in 10 years:
Own a restaurant with a participating management and
a mentor philosophy
Most embarrassing moment at work: While lecturing
a server about watching where she was going, I turned
and smacked my head into a pole.
Best area to travel in terms of culinary quality:
Barbados. I was surprised by the variety of styles and
ingredients. The British
service was excellent.
Favorite pastimes: Painting and music
Jonathan L. Fertal
-Executive chef at Stock's on 2nd
Years working in present position: Eight
Culinary education: Culinary Institute of America,
Hyde Park, N.Y. and Tuesday Club, Harrisburg
Before you were a chef, you were a: I always
worked in the restaurant business. I waitered, was a
manager, cooked, and even washed dishes.
If you weren't a chef, you would be a: Professional
golfer. Why not? They pay you to golf.
Favorite aspect of job: Be on top of your game
or be gone (very
demanding and challenging). A solid effort [from everyone]
is
obvious. One person's effort will effect everyone's
effort in this
business.
Favorite dish to make at Stock's: New York strip
au poivre
Favorite dish to make at home: Lasagna
Favorite restaurant other than workplace: Empire
Restaurant in Carlisle
Holiday cooking tip: Don't cook. Tell everybody
you have to work and come later, then you don't have
to clean up. There is a differencebetween wanting to
cook and being forced to do it.
The bottom line is: I love my mother's cooking,
and when it comes down to it, everyone loves their mother's
cooking.
Favorite cookbook: I don't read cookbooks. A
developed recipe isn't an original recipe. I see it
as a form of plagiarism.
Best advice: Being a chef is like being a priest
- the pay is about
the same, both are lonely, and it is a long commitment
(from myself to a young culinary student unsure about
this business).
Best area in the world to travel, in terms of culinary
quality:
Italian Market, N.Y.
Where you would love to travel: Scotland. It's
very mystic and I'd love to golf there. I enjoy small
towns, where there aren't tourists - where you can really
immerse yourself in their culture and food.
Doan Tran
-Executive chef at Rémys
Years working in present position: Since November
2001 (Rémys' opening)
Culinary education: Assistant chef with my father
in our family
restaurant, Imperial Palace, New Cumberland. Learned
food prep from restaurants around the world.
Before you were a chef, you were a: Logistic
engineer for the Pentagon
If you weren't a chef, you would: Write a cookbook.
... I feel like I was born to be a chef.
Favorite dish to make at Rémys: Sautéed
seafood Italian (with my own special marinara sauce)
Favorite restaurant other than workplace: There's
a Malaysian restaurant in Philadelphia where you can
choose your fish from a tank and the chef will prepare
it. I like very fresh food.
Holiday cooking tip: Mix Asian barbecue seasoning
powder with red wine soy sauce and black pepper. Rub
this on fresh duck that's stuffed with a halved orange
and green onions and marinate overnight. Add some water
to pan and bake. After baking, squeeze some fresh orange
juice, a bit of sugar, and cornstarch to the hot liquid
to make a slightly thick sauce.
Favorite cookbook: "Italy Anywhere, Living
an Italian Culinary Life Wherever You Call Home"
Dumbest question you were ever asked: If you're
Asian, why are you cooking Italian-style foods?
Most embarrassing moment: Sometimes I do martial
arts with some of our regular customers who come upstairs
to the lounge for a drink. I often end up on the floor.
Best area in the world to travel, in terms of culinary
quality:
Singapore and Malaysia - they blend wonderful herbs
and spices with tomato sauces and use very fresh seafood.
Where you would love to travel: Europe. Everything
at their markets is alive.
Favorite pastime: Spending time with my wife,
Kim, and our son, David
Anything else?: I come from a long line of hardworking
and loving people. Many years ago, my family lost our
home in Vietnam because of the fall of Saigon to communism.
We don't take things for granted. We feel very grateful
for and appreciate America.
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